Day 19 RIO GRANDE to RIO GALLEGOS (365 km / 132 m)
Grande Hotel to HOTEL PATAGONIA
Still travelling on the east side Chile and Argentina…….206 kms driven on various grades of gravel roads.
Ruta 3 known as Ruta del Fin del Mondo (road to the end of the world.)
Border crossing Chile into Argentina and onto ferry crossing at the Magellan Straits where a seredipitous moment happens. Ross starts chatting to a chap with an English accent.and askes where he has come from in the Uk? He replies ‘Cornwall’! Instant recognition between them and igt is Chris Barton who sailed with Ross in Cornwall from 1984 to 1987. I am taking photos of the ferry with Susie ( Red Car) to hear my name being called by someone running down the road unrecognisable at that moment….Polly Barton , Chris’s wife) A quick exchange as we were travelling in opposite directions..us on a ferry and they on a bus. Serendipitous as I said!
Blue B and her 7 fellow Mgs wait for the Ferry
Chris and Polly Barton with me at Ferry Crossing Magellan Straits
A VERY exciting day, maybe emotional and begins with two photos shoots (1) outside our hotel looking over the Beagle Channel and (2) at the exit of Ushuaia
8 VIP MGs overlooking the Beagle ChannelHere we go. . . Here we go. . .HERE WE GO !
David and Laurel Godwin ( our Fearless Leaders) MGA RIP (*) Queensland
John and Ros Bastian ……………………………………..MGB Goldie (*) NSW
Peter and Wendy Carthy ………………………………..MGBGT Green Car (*) South Australia
Mike and Kay Herlihy …………………………………..MGBGT Shiraz (*) Victoria
Ross and Shez Letten ……………………………………MGB Blue B (*) Queensland
Ian and Lorraine McCleave …………………………MGBGT Navy Car (*) Victoria
George and Cherie Pethard…………………………MGB Casper (*) NSW
Ken and Sue Slater ……………………………………MGBGT Red Car (*) NSW
Ross and Blue B travelled with all this Team on the ‘Cape to Cairo and Beyond’ except for the Herlihys and myself .
(*) the MGs all have ‘Nicknames’ for CB Radio communication and this is how I will refer to them in this Blog
On the 10 January we started the 5,000 kms Preliminary Trip from Vine Del Mar CHILE to Ushuaia ARGENTINA …to position the MGs for the OFFICIAL start of our MG PAN AMERICAN HIGHWAY Adventure…)
At the moment I am writing the Prelimainary trip in one Word Press Post
SO HERE GOES:-
Our usual routine is ….6.00 alarm .Pack / Breakfast / Pack Car/ Leave ….. for next Destination ; Pitstop/tea stop BYO /at Café /or at Fuel stop ; arrive at destination early/late afternoon; 6.30 pm Drinks and Meeting re the days travel and next days plans/ Dinner at hotel locally . Thius is the same most days except when we have a REST Day every approx. every four days. This is the usual routine with a few changes and not the routine on REST DAYS.
CHILE
10 January Day 1 Vine Del Mar to San Xavier 362 km / 225 ml
(Hotel Del Mar – TOBONKO GUEST HOUSE)
Depart Vina Del Mar for San Javier (362 kms / 225 m)
Travel is mainly on a highway with many tolls…probably every 100kms?
After three hours we stopped for Tea/Pit stop at a camp area under a bridge. We experience the immediate interest in the MGs with adults and kids seemingly appearing from nowhere.
More highway driving and three tolls later we leave the motorway and drive to San Javier through hilly vineyard country to the Gillmore Vineyard and Tobonko Guest House.
A crystal clear swimmimg pool was very inviting followed by a wine tasting (Andreas) and a brilliant meal.
Our hosts Andreas and Danielle , and receptionist Carolyn at Gillmore Winery were exceptional in their welcome and hospitalilty etc.. (The property is family owned and managed by Danielle and Andreas. I am sure their website would be worth looking at.(www.gillmore.cl)
A beautiful setting and when I can download photos I will do so in the meantime you can look at the general website or the link to the other ones of the group.
FOR MG ENTHUSIASTS:- Casper (White MGB has starting problems so Casper parked at entrance of the Tobonko Guest House to have a charger connected all night
11 January Day 2 San Xavier to Temaco 406 km /252 ml
(Tobonko Guest House to HOTEL DREAMS TEMACO)
Tobonko Guest House was divine and could have stayed there for longer .
As todays travel would take us back on the highway , Ruta 5 – but Danielle , our hostess at Tobonko Guest House suggested we go on the scenic coast road to avoid as much as possible of of the boring highway .
Pit /tea stop in Buchupereo, a fishing village albeit in a beach side car park. Once again a huge interest in the Mgs and I was trying out my very bad Spanish.!
John Bastian ( Goldie) , at the fuel stop at San Xavier chatted to the local Carabineros ( Chile Police) who lead us through town….and with lights flashing they guided us on our way! We felt very important. (For the Kellys and Matteas who travelled to Italy with us …it was shades if the Carabinieri ( national military police of Italy) who looked after us at the European Event of the Year 2010 in Italy. )
On trying to find the shortcut back to Ruta 5 Highway we ended up driving on 30 kms of gravel. I am sure the first of many more as we head further south in Chile and Argentina.
Nine hours and 665 km / 416 ml later we arrive at a Hotel Dreams in the centre of Temuco.
Again a hotel attached to a casino …but this time unfortunately we could only have the 6.30 Happy Hour Meeting in the sould less lobby..however we can party anywhere!
Temuco was founded by Chilean Military in Mapuche territory in 1881 and grew very quickly into one of Chile’s main cities . With easy access to the Andean Valleys ad the coast makes Temuco a hub for agricultural , livestock , forestry operations as well as communication and trade centre for the surrounding small towns.
12 January Day 3 Temuco to Puerto Varus 332 km / 206 ml
(Hotel Dreams Temuco to HOTEL PUECLHE)
our journey into PATAGONIA CHILE region of South America begins here.
We were recommended to look at the local market in Temuco as craft work from the Mapuche (*) We walked the 3kms into the market but a somewhat disappointing event as not all stalls have opened….and not a lot of Mapuche Craft. Apparently the crafts are made up in the hills surrounding Temuco and sold by someone else in the markets.. . (*) The Mapuche are the most numerous indians in South America and numbered more than 1,400.000 at t he turn of the 21st Century inhabiting most of the central valley of Chile. .Mapuche are famous for their 350 year struggle against Spanish and later Chilean domination. (if time suggest you Google the Mapuche)
Late departure back on Ruta 5 highway to Puerto Varus. Shez bravely drove the last 100 kms somewhat nervously as the first time driving on the right of the road and driving in the middle of the Mg Convoy at approx. 100 km/hr! Ross took over as entering Puerto Varus.
Puerto Varus is in the region of Chile known as the Lakes and Volcanoes District. The German colonization has left its track on the architecture and gardens of Puerto Varus.
The Hotel Puelche is delightful overlooking Lago (Lake) Llanquhue. Jorge and Claudia from Pro Tours Chile came to the hotel and gave us a very informative talk on our journey through Chile and Argentina and what to do on our rest day in the scenic area around Puerto Varus . A walk to the town , along the Lake shore and dinner at CasaValades a lovely restaurant recommended to us by Jorge. An excellent end to another day on the road and especially in anticipation of the REST DAY tomorrow.
13 January Day 3 / 14 January Day 4 REST DAY in Puerto Varus .
A Cloudy and lazy start to the day and after a photo shot outside Pro Tours Chile offices MG Pan Am Team took off on sight seeing day around the Lago and up to the Volcano Osorno. Shez stayed at the Hotel Puelche for some downtime, tried to get to grips with transferring photos from camera to Ross’s Microsoft Surface Pro this BLOG….basically failed as Shez is used to an Apple Mac! ( well that is my excuse anyway for the delay in the Letten Blog and thank goodness for the other MGs.)
(on a domestic front…washing done by hotel!)
15 January Day 5 Puerto Varus to Hornepiren 125 kms / 75 ml
(Hotel Puelche to HOSTERIA CATALINA )
Late start 9.00 am YEBO ! ..and just as well as Ross had to mission to the Pro Chile Tours offices re complicated Vehicle Insurance issues that has been ongoing from months ago in Australia.
Countryside becoming rain forest type vegetation as well as ferns and delicious monsters…….the plant that is.( Our friends Ross and Georgia Kelly in Queensland would have loved the environment.)
The road to Hornepiran is grey gravel with plenty of road construction and a few bumpy bridges. The wee MGS are now tested again . ( aka vaguely like Cape to Cairo and Beyond)..
We experienced the first of our Ferry Trips….45 minutes crossing the Reloncavi Estuary from La Arena to Caleta Puelche Fun going by ferry.. Then a short drive to Hornepiren.
Hornepiren is a small town of 1200 inhabitants .located at the base of volcano Hornopiren.This volcano is said to have erupted in 1835. ( the origin of the word is interesting;- horno means oven in Spanish and piren means snow in the native language Mapudungun )
A slight concern as as the only Fuel Station had run out of fuel (la gasolina in spanish) …..and we had 8 thirsty MGs…but the thinking is we will make it to get Fuel (Gas in South America) on the next days travel
Our host at Hosteria Catalina is totally Spanish speaking but helpful and used ‘Google Translation’ to understand us! Accommodation pretty basic..but still for me a warm cosy feel about the place!
While some drive to see if they can visit the Hornepiren National Park, Ross and Mike work on thier MGs , Dave Laurel with Guy Andrea and myself went to check out the next ferry departure point for the following day and discovered a ferry side coffee and cake cafe. Again interest in our silly little MGs!
I found a wee kitten to nurture late afternoon…looked far to small to be wondering from the next door house!
Dinner at Hotel Catalina and champagne flowing to celebrate the fun time with Guy and Andrea who will now return to Santiago.
FOR MG ENTHUSIASTS: Shiraz kept losing power and our Blue B has brakes that kept overheating. At Hornepieran , more MG brainstorming amongst the guys., Mike and Ross worked on their MGs. … even during Happy Hour drinks with full on comments from all. All good with the two MGs (I think) by the end of the evening.
15 January Day 6 Hornepiren to Caleta Gonzalo 93 kms / 58ml
A day of Ferry Crossings. …so not the short days travel as the kms/mileage shows!
(Hotel Catalina to CABANAS CALETA GONZALO)
Looked like a short days travel but involves two Ferry Crossings ..
9,00 am embarked on a large ferry ‘Kilo’ haveing said fond farewell to Guy and Andrea and crazily waved as the ferry left the slipway at Hornepirenat 10.00 am for the approx 3 hour journey through Chile fjords to Leptepu.
There must be 40 vehichles on board plus a huge tourist bus, various trucks and our eight MGs! . Pretty ferry trip and time went surprisingly quickly. Maybe a good time to relax!
On arrival at Leptepu at 1,00 pm I took a brill video ( well I think so) of the MGs leaving the ferry so hope I will be able to transfer to this Blog at some date!
A few kms gravel road travel to Fjord Largo for the next ferry crossing to Caleto Gonzalo. A 2 hour wait for the Ferry …… Patience is the name of the game…Shiraz has this ‘WAITING GAME’ waxed . . .
. . . .and PATIENCE is something we better get used to as only going to need it as we go through more Border Crossings and as we venture further north in South America and Central America. (Watch this space OR http://www.mgpanamerican.mgcc.com,au space for Argentina /Bolivia Border as apparently Right Hand Drive vehicles not easily accepted….!!!! )
The ferry trip is short and sweet through the picturesque Fjord Largo and our destination , Cabanas Caleta Gonzalos,in Parque Pumalin is right at the ferry disembarkation point. The grey shingled Cabanas are delightful wooden structures in a natural forest setting against the backddrop of the misty mountains. We shared a cabin with Dave and Laurel..lots of frivolity!
Parque Pumalin is a 3,250 sq km verdant pristine private nature reserve in the Paleana Province of Chile and is Chile’s largest private park encompassing vast extensions of temperate rainforest, clear rivers, seascapes and farmland.It is a remarkable forest-conversation effort which was It was created by the USA environmental foundation and the park is is owned by an American philanthropist and business magnate Douglas Tompkins.
We walked a small distance through the rainforest, farm land and swing bridge across a river. IShez even crossed the swing bridge across the river ,,,very reluctantly! .it was amazing and could have stayed there for longer, Parque Pumalin ( http://www.parquepumalin.cl )
A delightful stay but far to short……
16 January Day 7 Caleta Gonzalo to Puyuhuapi 245 km / 152 ml
(Cabanas Caleta Gonzalo to PUYUHUAPI LODGE and SPA)
Grey Gravel Road, Grey Skies and Road Construction land divine accomodation at the end of a long day……
We leave so early the next day Ken and Mike offer to prepare our braekfast at Cabanas Caleta Gonzalo and another day begins
Ken and Mike help Vishy ( Manager) prepare early Breakfsat
Leaving Cabanas Caleta Gonzales ..another day begins……in misty rain……with grey slippery tough gravel roads, an airfield sharing the road and road construction like we have never seen before…….the photos ( eventually will say it all)
Along the way Casper gets a puncture …..and luckily in the small village of Chaitin (*) we find a Arres Ferreteria ( Hard Ware shop and amazingly equipped ! ) , A new tyre for Casper and a new jack for Blue B
(*) Chaitin ……in May 2008 Chaitin Volcano erupted for the first time in 9000 years causing tremendous damage to Chaitin, and Pumalin Park..
On the road again and with the skies lifting it is a very pretty drive past Lake Yelcho and the Andes in the background. No time to stop as on a tight frame to catch the small boat across another fjord waterway to Puyuhuapi Lodge.
The road alternates between Bitumen and Gravel , , Bitumen and Gravel and Bitumen and Gravel ..
…….AND Did I mention a small window to get to our next destination. ?
Our days travel was nigh complete when the construction work increases again and at 14.00 we get stopped for two and ha half hours as the road called , Carterra Australis closes for construction between 12.00 and 15,oo hours.
The eight MGs in a queue with many other vehicles, mainly 4 x 4 provide general interestr and amusement! We share our provisions and the 2.5 hours go by quite quickly.
At 17.00 we are given the go ahead and it was a slow drive through the constructions area…mud ,rocks ,traffic and huge construction equipment. At the sight of the ‘Eight MG Rainbow Train’ winding their way through all of this , the construction workers all shouted,smiles, waved and took photos with their smart phones!!! I question what was written in the log book for the days work as we certainly slowed the progress as we drove through !
At last , the end of the day is nigh as we find the secure fenced area in seemingly the middle of nowhere to leave the MGs and transfer in two boats to the AMAZING Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa .(www.bob.travel votes it as one of the 10 best places to stay in Chile)
The tranquillity is magic after a long day…and the MG Team relaxed in the hot springs before enjoying the remainder of the evening, Anyone venturing to Chile South America IU would recommend a few days here!
Another place where our stay was TOO Short.
17 January Day 8 Puyuhuapi to Coyhaique 233 km / 145 ml
( Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa to TEHUELCHE PATAGONIA LODGE)
to be continued..a slow process but think I am improving! On WORD PRESS BLOG once a POST is made you cannot alter the date of the POST >The actual OFFICIAL MG PAN AMERICA TRIP I will POST the dates in CHRONILOGICAL ORDER and give the details when time allows!!!
Luckily you all know how CHAOTIC I am and may rename this the LETTENS CHAOTIC BLOG! If Ross was writing the Blog it owuld be a lot different…but difficult whne it is all about ‘nursung; Blue B and the pother MGS along the way!!!
.Day 9 Crossing our FIRST South American Border Chile into Argentina
7.00 am Departure Tehuelche Patagonia Lodge COYHAIQUE CHILE for Destination Hosteria Antigua Patagonia LOS ANTIGUAS ARGENTINA ( 279 kms / 173 m)
Cloudy drizzly start to the day and as expected 10 hours plus on the road fingers were crossed that Dave’s MGA RIP is OK after the guys worked on the MGA RIP for 5 hours yesterday late afternoon /evening replacing the head gasket.(info for MG ENTHUSIASTS)
Even though still a little light rain and grey skyline we enjoyed driving on the 100 kms of bitumen before starting the 179 kms on a tough gravel road with awful corrugations in places. However the scenery was beautiful with the Andes more prominent on our left and sights of the large beautiful Lake General Carrera as we circuit the Lakes western side to the Chile /Agentinian Border at Chile Chicco.
Fuel ( at last) and a lunch stop was at Puerto Rio Tranquilloa little town on Lake General Carrera. Labradors and retrievers everywhere and one was sitting in the middle of the road. Those of you that know me well would not be surprised to hear that I then coaxed the lovely black Labrador away from the middle of the road. (Can you say ‘Doggie come here in Spanish?!) Ony to have my instruction completely ignored as the dog, now joined by others proceeded to run after passing cars !.
Nine hours later we arrived nervously at the Chilean Border as were told it could take 30 minutes per MG vehicle. However with our SpanEnglish and help from an official who could speak a little English Ross a I were through each border in half an hour followed fast on our heels by the others. …so all good.
We arrived into ARGENTINA late Sunday afternoon 18 Jan and after driving around the town of Los Antiguas for a while eventually found our hotel , Hosteria Antigua Patagonia on the shores of basically the same lake but now called Lake Buenos Aires .A long day and for MG ENTUSIASTS….MGA RIP travelled well with the new head gasket.
Check in to accommodation, drinks and a chat , dinner and collapsed into bed. . This is the order of most days Tomorrow is a REST Day YEBO ! .
Day 2 San Javier to Temuco (406 kms / 87 m) Country, Coastal roads and the Highway
A day of highway and toll travelling on the agenda but under the guidance of the proprietor of the Tobonko Guesthouse a scenic route was chosen to avoid the highway as much as possible.
After a picturesque photo shoot of the stars of the show….eight MGs under the palm trees at Tobonko Guest House we left and as advised travelled through lovely rural country to the coast .
Tea/Pit stop was in a fishing village albeit in a beach side car park . Once again a huge interest in the MGs and I tried out my very bad Spanish again. I seemed to be understood but cannot understand the spoken language at all!
On trying to return to the highway we experienced the first bit of dirt road…..30 kms of it.and then finally back on Highway Ruta 5 to Temuco after 665 kms / 416 m. Not complaining as was a lovely days touring.
Temuco is a city and commune, capital of the Cautin Province and Araucania Region in Southern Chile . In the history of Araucania Region it is the land of the Mapuche who resisted the Spanish Conquest. Temuco was founded by Chilean military in Mapuche Territory during the occupation of Araucania and grew quickly into one of Chile’s main cities
Our hotel , Hotel Dreams Temuco is linked to the casino .Our rooms are fine but only my personal view a soulless lobby invaded by sound pollution from the casino.! However it did not deter us from the usual Happy Hour drinks and briefing on the next days plan.
David and Laurel Godwin ( our Fearless Leaders) MGA RIP (*) Queensland
John and Ros Bastian ……………………………………..MGB Goldie (*) NSW
Peter and Wendy Carthy ………………………………..MGBGT Green Car (*) South Australia
Mike and Kay Herlihy …………………………………..MGBGT Shiraz (*) Victoria
Ross and Shez Letten ……………………………………MGB Blue B (*) Queensland
Ian and Lorraine McCleave …………………………MGBGT Navy Car (*) Victoria
George and Cherie Pethard…………………………MGB Casper (*) NSW
Ken and Sue Slater ……………………………………MGBGT Red Car (*) NSW
Ross and Blue B travelled with all this Team on the ‘Cape to Cairo and Beyond’ except for the Herlihys and myself .
(*) the MGs all have ‘Nicknames’ for CB Radio communication and this is how I will refer to them in this Blog
On the 10 January we started the 5,000 kms Preliminary Trip from Vine Del Mar CHILE to Ushuaia ARGENTINA …to position the MGs for the OFFICIAL start of our MG PAN AMERICAN HIGHWAY Adventure…)
At the moment I am writing the Prelimainary trip in one Word Press Post
SO HERE GOES:-
Our usual routine is ….6.00 alarm .Pack / Breakfast / Pack Car/ Leave ….. for next Destination ; Pitstop/tea stop BYO /at Café /or at Fuel stop ; arrive at destination early/late afternoon; 6.30 pm Drinks and Meeting re the days travel and next days plans/ Dinner at hotel locally . Thius is the same most days except when we have a REST Day every approx. every four days. This is the usual routine with a few changes and not the routine on REST DAYS.
CHILE
10 January Day 1 Vine Del Mar to San Xavier 362 km / 225 ml
(Hotel Del Mar – TOBONKO GUEST HOUSE)
Depart Vina Del Mar for San Javier (362 kms / 225 m)
Travel is mainly on a highway with many tolls…probably every 100kms?
After three hours we stopped for Tea/Pit stop at a camp area under a bridge. We experience the immediate interest in the MGs with adults and kids seemingly appearing from nowhere.
More highway driving and three tolls later we leave the motorway and drive to San Javier through hilly vineyard country to the Gillmore Vineyard and Tobonko Guest House.
A crystal clear swimmimg pool was very inviting followed by a wine tasting (Andreas) and a brilliant meal.
Our hosts Andreas and Danielle , and receptionist Carolyn at Gillmore Winery were exceptional in their welcome and hospitalilty etc.. (The property is family owned and managed by Danielle and Andreas. I am sure their website would be worth looking at.(www.gillmore.cl)
A beautiful setting and when I can download photos I will do so in the meantime you can look at the general website or the link to the other ones of the group.
FOR MG ENTHUSIASTS:- Casper (White MGB has starting problems so Casper parked at entrance of the Tobonko Guest House to have a charger connected all night
11 January Day 2 San Xavier to Temaco 406 km /252 ml
(Tobonko Guest House to HOTEL DREAMS TEMACO)
Tobonko Guest House was divine and could have stayed there for longer .
As todays travel would take us back on the highway , Ruta 5 – but Danielle , our hostess at Tobonko Guest House suggested we go on the scenic coast road to avoid as much as possible of of the boring highway .
Pit /tea stop in Buchupereo, a fishing village albeit in a beach side car park. Once again a huge interest in the Mgs and I was trying out my very bad Spanish.!
John Bastian ( Goldie) , at the fuel stop at San Xavier chatted to the local Carabineros ( Chile Police) who lead us through town….and with lights flashing they guided us on our way! We felt very important. (For the Kellys and Matteas who travelled to Italy with us …it was shades if the Carabinieri ( national military police of Italy) who looked after us at the European Event of the Year 2010 in Italy. )
On trying to find the shortcut back to Ruta 5 Highway we ended up driving on 30 kms of gravel. I am sure the first of many more as we head further south in Chile and Argentina.
Nine hours and 665 km / 416 ml later we arrive at a Hotel Dreams in the centre of Temuco.
Again a hotel attached to a casino …but this time unfortunately we could only have the 6.30 Happy Hour Meeting in the sould less lobby..however we can party anywhere!
Temuco was founded by Chilean Military in Mapuche territory in 1881 and grew very quickly into one of Chile’s main cities . With easy access to the Andean Valleys ad the coast makes Temuco a hub for agricultural , livestock , forestry operations as well as communication and trade centre for the surrounding small towns.
12 January Day 3 Temuco to Puerto Varus 332 km / 206 ml
(Hotel Dreams Temuco to HOTEL PUECLHE)
our journey into PATAGONIA CHILE region of South America begins here.
We were recommended to look at the local market in Temuco as craft work from the Mapuche (*) We walked the 3kms into the market but a somewhat disappointing event as not all stalls have opened….and not a lot of Mapuche Craft. Apparently the crafts are made up in the hills surrounding Temuco and sold by someone else in the markets.. . (*) The Mapuche are the most numerous indians in South America and numbered more than 1,400.000 at t he turn of the 21st Century inhabiting most of the central valley of Chile. .Mapuche are famous for their 350 year struggle against Spanish and later Chilean domination. (if time suggest you Google the Mapuche)
Late departure back on Ruta 5 highway to Puerto Varus. Shez bravely drove the last 100 kms somewhat nervously as the first time driving on the right of the road and driving in the middle of the Mg Convoy at approx. 100 km/hr! Ross took over as entering Puerto Varus.
Puerto Varus is in the region of Chile known as the Lakes and Volcanoes District. The German colonization has left its track on the architecture and gardens of Puerto Varus.
The Hotel Puelche is delightful overlooking Lago (Lake) Llanquhue. Jorge and Claudia from Pro Tours Chile came to the hotel and gave us a very informative talk on our journey through Chile and Argentina and what to do on our rest day in the scenic area around Puerto Varus . A walk to the town , along the Lake shore and dinner at CasaValades a lovely restaurant recommended to us by Jorge. An excellent end to another day on the road and especially in anticipation of the REST DAY tomorrow.
13 January Day 3 / Day 4 REST DAY in Puerto Varus .
A Cloudy and lazy start to the day and after a photo shot outside Pro Tours Chile offices MG Pan Am Team took off on sight seeing day around the Lago and up to the Volcano Osorno. Shez stayed at the Hotel Puelche for some downtime, tried to get to grips with transferring photos from camera to Ross’s Microsoft Surface Pro this BLOG….basically failed as Shez is used to an Apple Mac! ( well that is my excuse anyway for the delay in the Letten Blog and thank goodness for the other MGs.)
(on a domestic front…washing done by hotel!)
14 January Day 5 Puerto Varus to Hornepiren 125 kms / 75 ml
(Hotel Puelche to HOSTERIA CATALINA )
Late start 9.00 am YEBO ! ..and just as well as Ross had to mission to the Pro Chile Tours offices re complicated Vehicle Insurance issues that has been ongoing from months ago in Australia.
Countryside becoming rain forest type vegetation as well as ferns and delicious monsters…….the plant that is.( Our friends Ross and Georgia Kelly in Queensland would have loved the environment.)
The road to Hornepiran is grey gravel with plenty of road construction and a few bumpy bridges. The wee MGS are now tested again . ( aka vaguely like Cape to Cairo and Beyond)..
We experienced the first of our Ferry Trips….45 minutes crossing the Reloncavi Estuary from La Arena to Caleta Puelche Fun going by ferry.. Then a short drive to Hornepiren.
Hornepiren is a small town of 1200 inhabitants .located at the base of volcano Hornopiren.This volcano is said to have erupted in 1835. ( the origin of the word is interesting;- horno means oven in Spanish and piren means snow in the native language Mapudungun )
A slight concern as as the only Fuel Station had run out of fuel (la gasolina in spanish) …..and we had 8 thirsty MGs…but the thinking is we will make it to get Fuel (Gas in South America) on the next days travel
Our host at Hosteria Catalina is totally Spanish speaking but helpful and used ‘Google Translation’ to understand us! Accommodation pretty basic..but still for me a warm cosy feel about the place!
While some drive to see if they can visit the Hornepiren National Park, Ross and Mike work on thier MGs , Dave Laurel with Guy Andrea and myself went to check out the next ferry departure point for the following day and discovered a ferry side coffee and cake cafe. Again interest in our silly little MGs!
I found a wee kitten to nurture late afternoon…looked fdar to small to be wondering from the next door house!
Dinner at Hotel Catalina and champagne flowing to celebrate the fun time with Guy and Andrea who will now return to Santiago.
FOR MG ENTHUSIASTS: Shiraz kept losing power and our Blue B has brakes that kept overheating. At Hornepieran Mike and Ross worked on their MGs. … even during Happy Hour drinks with full on comments from all. All good with the two MGs (I think) by the end of the evening.
14 January Day 6 Hornepiren to Caleta Gonzalo 125 kms / 75 ml
A day of Ferry Crossings. …so not the short days travel as the kms/mileage shows!
(Hotel Catalina to CABANAS CALETA GONZALO)
Looked like a short days travel but involves two Ferry Crossings ..
9,00 am embarked on a large ferry ‘Kilo’ haveing said fond farewell to Guy and Andrea and crazily waved as the ferry left the slipway at Hornepirenat 10.00 am for the approx 3 hour journey through Chile fjords to Leptepu.There must be 40 vehichles on board plus a huge tourist bus, various trucks and our eight MGs! . Pretty ferry trip and time went surprisingly quickly. Maybe a good time to relax!
On arrival at Leptepu at 1,00 pm I took a brill video ( well I think so) of the MGs leaving the ferry so hope I will be able to transfer to this Blog at some date!
A short gravel road travel to the next ferry crossing
A Full Day to enjoy relaxing in our Hotel Del Mar Vina Del Mar and prepare for the REAL START of MG Pan American Highway 2015.
Obviously the holiday season here so Vina del mar is very busy and wakes up in the evening. There is less English understood and spoken here than in Santiago and am guessing hat will be even more so as we travel south into Chile and Argentina.
FOR MG ENTHUSIASTS:- Early start for Ross playing MR Fixit on out MGB (Blue B)
Replacing the oil seal rear axle as oil leaking onto the brakes . (Peter Carthy (Geen B0 helped Ross.
Re -wiring the cigar lighter socket .
(NO we have not taken up smoking…but socket required for the GPS /charging iPhone etc!)
I enjoyed a lovely walk along the beach front to the Supermercado to get a few food items for unplanned stops along the way with a directive from Ross don’t get too much as will not fit in the MG. How many of you MG gals have heard that before.
While we again enjoyed ‘Happy Hour’ drinks in our Room also a Briefing from our Fearless Leader David on the MG Pan American Trip few days ahead and guide on travelling in convoy etc After another fun evening out we retired for the night with me , I have to say slightly anxious in participation of this huge trip ahead.
(minimal wifi…so no more photos till have access to faster wifi,,,watch this space….)
Ross was awake at 5.30 am for an early 7.00 am start for the MG Drivers to go to San Antonia Port again (89 kms / 55 ml) to collect our MGs.
I quickly went to get a Cuppa with Ross at breakfast and Kay Herlihy was there too as support for Mike . Last minute decision was made by me and I went as well for the drive in the now familiar Pro Tours Chile Bus to the Port.
While the boys went to the Port Officials fingers crossed there would be no more hiccups Kay and I stayed on the bus. Three hours later …..the boys and we were taken to the warehouse where our Mgs were being stored. All basically OK…but Ken ( Red Car) had had his CB Radio stolen, a failed attempt to steal Ian’s (Navy Car) CB Radio and David (RIP) has a complete flat battery. Otherwise all fine.
Bureaucracy lives on and an hour delay for the Port officials to have lunch. Witgh the help of the Pro Tours Chile guys Kay and I went to the nearest Supermarket to get the guys some lunch. ‘
A long tiring and frustrating day especially for the MG Drivers.
8.00 Departed Santiago to San Antonio Port in anticipation of meeting up with our lovely MGs after loading them in Melbourne on 27 October 2014 into two containers
.San Antonio is a major Chilean Port , handling a lot of freight and is he busiest port on the west coast of South America
After one and a half hours drive, in ‘our’ Pro Tours Bus to this very busy container port , and a long wait, eager anticipation turned into frustration as the paper work is apparently incorrect due to the Port Authorities requiring the official ‘Bills of Loading’ It is now midday. One of the San Antonio Port Official , armed with all the 8 MGs Documents etc drove to Santiago for the Documents to be checked by more Senior Authority . The Slow Wheels of Bureaucracy turning…..
As this was going to be a three hour plus wait for a decision re release of the Mgs we went to our hotel h at Vina del Mar , in Greater Valparaiso and another one and a half hours drive from San Antonio in Pro Tours Chile Bus. The driver Christian and guide Morris were very understanding of our predicament.
Valparaiso, 69.5 kms north west of Santiago ,is a major city, one of the South Pacific’s most important seaports and has been the headquarters for the Chilean National Congress since 1990
We stayed at Hotel Del Mar ,in Vina Del Mar meaning ‘Vineyard of the Sea’ . .It is known for its placid resorts, malls, extensive coastal high buildings ,hotels and attracts an influx of local and international visitors through out the year.
The days frustration continued as our rooms were not ready but no spin as a few of us went walkabout along the esplanade to to the nearest Cafe. to get a decent cu of coffee is a challenge …for our spoilt Australian palette anyway. Am sure this will improve by the time we get to Colombia! At the coast English is less spoken so we are trying our best at VERY Bad Spanish. Hopefully this will improve as we travel .
At 3.oo pm Team MG learnt that the papers have been accepted, but to late to drive back to the port so will do so tomorrow 08 Jan .
As our room had the largest deck/balcony and in the absence of a lobby lounge it was chosen as the ‘Happy Hour’ meeting place. Dinner was at a Mexican restaurant with shared fajitas etc and thank goodness the plates were not loaded with food.
Jet – lagged and after minimal sleep, but who cares …. we went to explore Santiago City by the Metro. We walked into the Town Square looking for the Museums and an insight into Chile’s turbulant past but unfortunately most of the Museums were closed. I guess called Murphy’s Law!!
We went to the Columbia Museum of Art ..a little overwhelming but impressive. …especially for us philistines.
Ross and I took the Metro /taxi St Christobel Hill where we met up with some of the other Mg Bunch and all took the Vernacular up the Hill. Impressive 360 degree view from the top. We returned back to Hotel El Bosque via taxi and were totally ripped off by the taxi driver with the confusion between 10,000 and 1,000 pesos notes and also think he had altered the taxi meter reading . We had been warned by the ProTours Chile guide. Lesson No 2 !
Santiago is a busy first world city and first impressions are pretty good.
7.00 Drinks with The Team in foyer . I tried a Pisco Sour Cocktail that a few of the gals love. Not me..(Shez) it knocked me for six!
Pisco Sour is an exotic twist for any cocktail party or gathering. While both Chile and Peru claim this classic as their own , this cocktail has sweet and sour flavours that can be enjoyed anywhere in the world.
Here is the Recipe:-
2 oz Pisco (Barsol Quebranta) / 1 oz Fresh lime juice / 0,5 oz simple syrup (one part sugar and one part water)/1 fresh egg white . Garnish with Angostura Bitters and serve in a Highball or a Flute Glass. ENJOY!
A Pisco Sour
We went out to dinner locally and for obvious reasons I cannot remember where. Also I am typing this a week later.
Ruta 3 known as Ruta del Fin del Mondo (road to the end of the world.)
MG Pan American Highway 2015 
